Clone of Paul's Fix All

Break face and go home

2010-06-21T23:48:00Z

Hit it

My first ski of the season was a success, I've got all my teeth, nothing's broken and my eardrums are in one piece.
My Maha performed as expected, though I didn't but at least I didn't break my face.
Ever heard of the saying, "go big or go home?"
Well, ever since July 4 2009, my friends and I have a new saying, "break face and go home!"
I was riding with my good ski buddies at 6 a.m. on Lake Almanor before the fishermen were even out, as I'd done literally hundreds of times before.
It was like any other run. I'd strapped into my wakeboard on the dock gathered two lengths of non-stretch rope, said the familiar mantra to myself through shivers, "the water is warmer than the air."
I chucked the two coils of rope, yelled "Hit it!" and gave a quick hop and held on for life saying yet another mantra, "never let go."
I hit the water feet first with my hair dry and went into my run, a classic pattern for me, heal-side air to get the feel, landing in the flats and edging hard into a toe-side slide, back into a toe side air landing sketchy on my toes riding it out waiving a one-handed windmill.
Now for the ego moves - a succession of three to four wake-to-wake 180s with some surface tricks mixed in and then with a wide start to a really progressive cut on my toes, I keep the rope tight to my left, rear hip, knees bent hard and popping I roll forward into a front roll landing in the flats outside the wake sliding out before coming to my feet.
The first flip of the year landed, now what? I'd exhausted my lineup save for some other long-shot moves.
Back flip? No I'd been too afraid of busting my knee after the last attempt.
It was early in the season and I was out of shape and I had nothing left in the tank so I went for the scarecrow, a front roll with a 180.
It was all-bad and ugly from the start. My knees buckled into the wake as a rolled too early and slow.
I landed flat on my feet with my knees tucked tight, nearly sitting on the board. My right knee came up faster than my reflexes and with more power than my out-of-shape legs. Simultaneously my neck gave out sending my head into my knee like a whip.
My knee hit me square in my right cheek like a right hook from a heavyweight boxer.
It hurt real bad.
I immediately felt my two cheeks with two hands and noticed a depression in my cheek.
"I broke my freaking face!" was my first thought.
I couldn't see, couldn't think of anything but the pain, I felt super dizzy and struggled to get the darn board off.
Good thing my driver is literally a brain surgeon.
Between hundreds of obscenities, I tell him, "Craig, I think I broke my face."
After a brief inspection he says, "no, I think you're OK, you'd know if you broke your face."
Well by this time I had a small pressure cut on my cheek, like boxers get.
My eye was swelling and I had a splitting headache.
Long story short, I asked for a quick ride back to the dock called my then fiancé and asked for a ride home and guessed I'd be out of the 5k I was supposed to run later that day.
I spent the rest of the day at Seneca Hospital ralphing in a paper bag and at home sleeping it off.
I still get phone calls and e-mails from certain friends where the first words or the subject line say, I kid you not, "Break face and go home!"

Maha Fin

2010-06-07T16:59:35Z

Maha fin

Well again I took my Maherajah water ski project a bit further.
I started with a water logged, faded and abused Maha.
Now the ski looks well, it's clean, shiny and water tight - I hope.
The only thing left to do is glue the new rubber tip on.
Maherajah recommended using regular super/crazy glue and starting on the top center of the "m" put one dab, press and hold then do the middle, bottom. Then apply glue to the sides.
To help with adhesion Maha recommended a bit of acetone on the rubber to clean and of course removing all the old glue, which was a pain.

Here's the process:

At first I was timid, trying to restore the minimum luster of the ski with a rubbing compound, which worked, however I needed more.

I disassembled the ski and sanded out the dings and nicks.

I then used a two-part epoxy to fill the holes using cardboard as a squeegee.

Then after sanding the epoxy smooth, I sanded the whole ski lightly with a medium-grit sponge (sorry no number on it.) I scuffed it enough to break the sheen on the ski to give the urethane a bite.

Fearing for weak adhesion I use a quick-cut product, like super abrasive toothpaste, made for use as a final sand prior to paint application. That was applied with a scrubbing pad - a special one without dyes, chemicals or scents.

I washed well with dishsoap, rinsed and repeated.

After sun drying, I rolled out an end roll of newspaper over the shop bench (I've kind of got the hookup on that stuff.) It works well to create a clean work surface and cleans up easily.

With a brush I applied two coats of spar urethane sanding between them with a fine foam sanding block.

Then with 0000 grain steel wool and some automotive polish, I rubbed the whole ski down and buffed with a power buffer to give the final shine.

Using a carnauba car wax, I waxed the ski and reassembled.

Fin.

Now HIT IT!

Maha resto two

2010-05-25T21:53:18Z

My minimalist restoration has become more involved.
At last writing I was content with the miracle rub that at least partially restored a sun-beaten and water-logged finish.
I've now sanded down and epoxy filled the major chips and blemishes.

For the blackened, bare wood damaged by water, I used a wood bleach chemical solution, about a tablespoon per quart of water.
Over the course of a few days I periodically applied the solution to the blackened areas, rinsed and repeated with mixed results. Actually sanding down the wood to reveal the true hue worked better, at least aesthetically.
I used a small paint brush and followed the instructions on the can.
After a healthy rinsing and sun drying the wood ski, I used epoxy to fill in the deeper gouges.
Next step I'll sand down the epoxy and use a spar urethane to touch up the other areas, per Bob Maher's instructions.
While ordering the rubber ski tip I spoke with the man the myth the legend and he gave me good advice.
Also his helper recommended the use of a five-minute epoxy.
I received the rubber tip in one day and talking with a piece of water ski history was a treat.
I'll still be dealing with some discoloration in the damaged areas, but overall it'll be in much more sound condition than I've ever skied it, so I'll be happy.

Maha resto

2010-05-18T19:05:14Z

I brought out the old wooden Majerajah water ski yesterday hoping to bring out the shine, and I did with not a lot of work, here's what I learned so far.
First, this Maha was a beautiful ski and Bob Maher's company still makes wooden skis after 50 years that are competitive in ski racing. They still sell slalom skis that look quite similar to mine.
Though the company said on its Web site, a lot of its ski sales are to old-time skiers for wall decorations.
I'm not that type of guy I want to ski this thing again.
I grew up waterskiing and my family had this old Maha for as long as I can remember, but we really only skied it as an exhibition, to see if it still works. I'd always favored modern plastics, fiberglass, graphite and composite skis with two boots and all that.
It wasn't until I got into, then became bored with wakeboarding that I really started skiing and appreciated the sport, but still I'd probably skied this Maha hundreds of times.
After about an hour's work with a chemical restorer, I felt it looked well enough to ski again, but I was torn between fully stripping the finish and starting over or being happy with what I had. I leaned toward the easy one and good thing.
Maherajah's Web site, mahaskis.com, recommends not restoring an old ski because refinishing it could weaken it. However the site did recommend re-sealing chipped areas and bare wood with an exterior urethane-based product.
In Maha's words ... "We do not recommend refinishing an older ski. If the ski has been badly damaged or neglected we don't recommend using it. If you intend on using it, you can touch up the spots where bare wood is exposed by lightly sanding the spot and applying an exterior urethane based product, isolating the bad spots with masking tape.
We have found that refinishing a ski makes it thinner, more flexible, and more likely to break. Old skis are already more brittle than their newer counterparts."
Well from here on out I'll follow those guidelines - more or less.
After more than 50 years, Maha must know a thing or two about wood skis.

After years of baking in the sun and a bit of time spent in the oily bilge compartment of our boat after it sank, the formerly beautiful ski had seen better days.
So I dug it out from my grandmother's basement over the weekend and last night and tried, unbelieving, a minimal restoration of the ski's finish.
I had some restore-a-finish, or some kind of wood-stain restorer sitting around from a previous failed attempt with wood working.
A dab of the chemical on some fine steel wool and a couple strokes of it on the ski in an inconspicuous area yielded amazing results to my consternation.
The restorer is a dark walnut finish which is wrong, but it was what I had and there was no way it was going to come out worse so I dove in.
Before I really hit it, I wanted to document before and after progress so I could tell how it measured up.
Excitedly I started snapping pictures of the beat-up ski with my cell phone in my dark garage.
Then, with rubber gloves on I started vigorously rubbing the magic restoration juice on the ski with fine steel wool.
Then becoming evermore brave, I brought out the screw gun and took the bindings off.
Taking a break from the fumes, I tore into the bindings, spraying them down with silicone spray and wiping them with a rag made them look much better. The same fine, steel wool with a bit of polish on the stainless binding hold-downs brought out the shine.

Now with the ski, sans bindings, I really got with it and scrubbed down the whole dang thing. I masked off a small sticker reading 3.5 near the Maha logo and the rubber fin cap and went over the ski again, wiping off the excess juice as I went.
It started looking well again in little time but the torn rubber tip had to go. Using a dedicated, shop hairdryer I loosened the grip of the glue and pulled it off and started to work on the adhesive - gnarly stuff and I've still got more work to go.
Then I lightly sanded the splintered edges and gave it more juice.

Next step, order a new rubber tip boot - $24 from mahaskis.
Then some urethane, assembly and "HIT IT!"

Pride of home

2010-04-27T19:36:02Z

Cleaning up around the house isn't just for homeowners. Renters can take pride in their home too.
A few simple chores on a weekend or in spare time after work can yield significant results helping a house to feel more like home, even if it's a temporary home.
First talk to the landlord to see what, if anything, he or she will let you do.
Chances are they'll be more than happy to get free labor out of you, especially once you're established as a good worker.
Split costs with the landlord or manager wherever possible or work for free in exchange for materials if you can.
Other costs such as sprucing up the yard with annuals are probably best born by you as the renter. Perennial plants should be cleared with the owner or manager and costs shared appropriately.
Also, if the landlord has his or her own equipment, should it be needed, it's wise to ask for it.
A bag of grass seed and fertilizer can go a long way to livening up the yard just spread it by hand or spreader if available and keep it wet. Don't spread it before a heavy rain and check the forecasts.
Pressure washing front steps and walkways will rid concrete, bricks and mortar of stains caused from the winter's rains and runoff. Use high pressure and a wide, 40-60 degree tip and use caution not to send chunks flying off. Keep the tip moving and hold it six inches or so away and systematically work manageably-sized areas.
Again using that pressure washer, only this time with a 90 degree tip and lower pressure, clean the siding and windows. Start from the bottom up to prevent stains even though it seems counterintuitive. Again use caution not to blow through windows or rip paint off the house. Start at a comfortable distance about a foot or so and wet the surface. Then get more aggressive with it when you find the rhythm.
If nothing else a broom, rag and some cleanser can do wonders.
Use the broom to catch spider webs and dust windowsills. Glass cleaner and a rag will have those windows spotless easily. I prefer an aerosol can of foaming cleaner, but anything will work.
Use some degreaser and a hose to wash out window screens.
After these measures a house is more than just a building. It shows you take pride in your home. Plus you'll have some meditative time to yourself. It's good for the soul.

Air filters

2010-04-26T23:01:59Z

Cleaning filters

I was just talking to a fellow coworker today who was suggesting I clean my motorcycle's air cleaner more often than every four years or so.
I, being a minimalist, disagreed.
However, if you own a rechargeable, cleanable or reusable filter - or dirty paper one, here's what you need to know. Then you can decide if you want to deal with it or postpone it as I do.

First off, how do you know when it needs cleaning?
Check your manual or read the directions on your air cleaner if you still have it.
No? It's cool, intervals are usually 12,000 miles or so, depending on conditions.
Did you still have that same air cleaner during the summer of 2008? It's probably time, that smoky dusty air is real bad on filter.
Secondly, check you mileage every tank. Barring all other changes like tire size, recent shop work, etc, a continual drop in mileage is great indicator your filter may be clogged up.

Now for the actual labor.
Find your filter.It's under the hood. Pop it and look up front on either side of the engine bay. It's usually on the front corners near the back of your headlights unless you've got an old school rig with a carburetor or throttle body fuel injection (TBI.) In this case, it'll probably under that short cylindrical tin top in the middle of the engine bay.
If can't find it, tough luck, you can stop here or reply to me and I'll figure it out for you.
Most newer cars house the air filter in black plastic box with a hose or pipe leading to the throttle body, where your lead foot connects to when you press the go pedal.
It might open without tools. If not, it's usually a simple hand-tool procedure.
Remember righty tighty, left loosey.
Open the box, pull out the element, usually paper, but sometimes, cloth if it's reusable.
If it's paper inspect it for excessive dirt.
Triage.
What's excess? How should I know. Use your judgment. Check your mileage, and the price of a new one to see if you can milk it a while longer.
If you're cheap like me shake it out or beat it on the fence and slap it back in.
If you're so inclined to replace it, congratulations, you've got to put in back in anyways and drive to the parts store and buy a new one, now you can ask the guy or girl at the counter for their opinion of your filthy filter (cheap skate.) They might try to sell you on a high performance one that'll make you're car beat a Ferrari in a 0-60 contest. They might tell you it's cheaper in the long run. Do the math it might be worth it, but don't go for it unless the price is right.
I suggest sticking with the original style, unless you like tinkering. The money you might save will probably be chewed up in time spent cleaning it.
A filter isn't really going to make a dramatic effect on performance, regardless of what the kid at the counter says his compact does now with a performance brand.
Again, if you're as cheap as I am, you'll ask for the cheapest one, then ask for a deal on it.
Wash it.
So if you've got a reusable one, wash it, but wait until you know you're not going to have to drive it for a few hours because after you clean it you're going to oil it and let it dry, right?
Use the manufacturer's recommended cleaner and oil and read the instructions carefully. It took me six years to finally read that K&N actually okays laundry detergent on their filters, I'd always gone stingy on the K&N brand cleaner to save it (cheapo.)
Knock off the big chunks, or use a soft brush to rid it of the bigger messes then rinse it good with tap water
Now in the laundry room sink (when you're wife isn't looking) wash the heck out of that thing with the detergent of your choice or availability. Rinse and repeat.
Shake the excess water off and air dry.
DON'T blow compressed air through it.
Dry? Good now spray the oil on there like the company wants you too.
The instructions are probably more poorly written than these, but follow them.
Too little and you'll let dirt into the motor - not good.
Too much and you can foul up computer controls in you're car also not good.
But we're not building a grand piano so spray some oil on it and call it good.
Scared to over or under do it? Buy a paper filter and don't listen to the kid with a fart muffler and a cold-air-kit-powered compact at the parts store.

Cleaning up

2010-04-26T22:08:14Z

Spring has officially been here for a month now and many of us have started spring cleaning.
Here starts a session of how to cleaning processes for around the home, office and transportation.
Stay tuned...

Go-carts carryover to cars

2010-04-19T18:34:12Z

To further illustrate my previous point on how to straighten out serpentine roads, lets look at go-cart racing.
Go-cart racing is great fun, however expensive.
For $20 for 10 minutes, this is a sparing hobby, at least on a journalist salary.
Saturday I visited Heart Attack Racing at the Silver Dollar Fairgrounds I clocked a personal best of 26.9 seconds around the track.
Being my first time on the course, and about a second and half behind the track record I consider myself lucky.
Racing against a good friend and our wives, whom we passed carefully, we slid around corners and pinned the throttle on the exit racing into the apex with shrieking tires and barking exhausts.
Joined by a stranger on our second heat, we welcomed him to the track as our wives, less enthused than us, sat the heat out.
I lapped the guy on the third to last lap after which he harpooned me on the entry to a hairpin ending the track's fastest section, probably around the 35 mph mark.
The stranger was black-flagged for dangerous contact.
After our all-too short time expired, the stranger accused myself, my good friend and the very friendly and courteous owner of having faster cars.
The owner told the man all the cars were the same.
Incredulous, the stranger insisted my car had to be faster because he couldn't catch me.
The owner told him again all the cars were 9-horse carts with the same set up. He said he could set lap records on any one of his carts. The difference was that the fastest drivers break before the turn, accelerate through it and take shorter lines.
Before racing, the owner sat us down showed us a map of the course, with the tightest lines explaining the slick, dusty sections against the walls that eat up time, more on that in a sec. Several times he stressed the fact that fastest times are churned when a driver breaks before the turn and accelerates through it, especially with a go-cart that has no front brakes and drives the rear tires with equal power, or with "posi-traction" as he put it.
Breaking mid-turn will cause the rear end to lose traction and cause a driver to spin and crash into the wall. Less dramatically, it causes a driver to get to the throttle later than his competitors.
When all the carts are so close in performance, the slightest advantage amounts to enough to win when stretched out across 10 minutes.
The sooner a driver can stab the throttle and leave it there when exiting a turn, the faster he'll get to the next one where the drag race begins again.
A certain amount of slippage is acceptable, and probably preferable to race drivers who learn to steer a car with the rear tires as much as with the front which the steering wheel is connected to.
Braking and throttle inputs in concert with correct steering input yields tighter turns and closer lines.
Taking a corner as close as possible to the apex, or center of the turn is the fastest line because it is also the shortest.
A little slip allows the motor to rev up without bogging down, but too much tire spin sucks time out of a lap.
So to wrap it up, staying on the throttle hard until the last possible second, braking before the turn and getting to the throttle the soonest without being afraid of a little sliding is the fastest way to get around the track.
Most motorcyclists know this routine from carving up canyons.
Another thing bikers know is that dust and debris collects on the sides of roads and on the centerline, where cars warm tires don't pick it up or send it off the road.
Knowing what keeps racecar drivers safe at crazy speeds can certainly keep everyday motorists safe at posted speed limits around town.
But remember your car is not a go-cart.

Drivin' twisties

2010-04-14T23:41:10Z

Too many times I've seen avoidable accidents on the twisty turns in and around town.
Almost every time, police at the scene say speed is a factor in the crash.
Other times alcohol or other drugs, usually prescriptions, are involved.
Recently two accidents on Clark Road south of town had me thinking about what can be done to help prevent these things from happening and sending people to the hospital.
Not drinking and driving is an obvious measure.
Police routinely say the single best thing to avoid crashing is slowing down.
The next best action is usually said, again by police, to follow further behind other vehicles giving more time to stop if needed.
The two crashes on Clark Monday and Tuesday in nearly identical areas of the slick road, were both said to be caused by unsafe speed.
Police say they feel safe saying the causes were unsafe speed, because if they'd been traveling at a safe speed they'd not be in the accident in the first place.
After that, they usually say the driver hit their brakes while already in the turn causing the car to lose control.
Slowing down prior to the turn and letting the car's momentum carry through the turn is the safer way to negotiate a turn.
Trying to slow down a car mid-turn can upset the car's handling dynamics causing the car to spin.
New technologies brake individual wheels and judge when and how to apply the brakes for you using steering input, anti-lock brake and speed sensors. These traction control devices can also interrupt throttle input.
However, following what race car drivers and emergency vehicle operators do, braking before the turn and accelerating through it is probably better.
Also, obeying posted speed limits and taking heed to the yellow posted limits in the turns will help.

Back to basics

2010-04-08T16:53:29Z

In automotive school the first thing they teach you is you need gas in the tank to start an engine.
That's also the first thing I forgot.
Recently I spent a whole week diagnosing dead-end, phantom problems on my old Grand Prix only to find I was out of gas.
I was entirely embarrassed and wondered if I should bury this blunder so deep as to never see the light of day.
Instead I dragged my deflated confidence in the house demoralized and immediately told my wife.
The good news was that I found other minor problems that would've surfaced soon and also found the missing distributor mechanical advance springs I thought I lost - more on that later.
It all started with an oil change - yeah laugh it up.
After topping it off with oil, I pulled the hot wire to the MSD ignition box as I've done many times before to crank up the motor to build oil pressure before firing it up.
When I tried to fire it up, it backfired real bad, then wouldn't even pop.
I was convinced I blew the ignition module.
So my apologies to the MSD tech line for wasting their time. Also, I give my thanks to the incredibly knowledgeable staff there.
All I had to do was siphon a gallon of gas into the tank from my motorcycle to get it to fire.
Go figure.
I'm going back to basics.

Been a while

2010-04-08T16:25:18Z

It's been a minute since I last wrote, at least for this blog. It seems producing a paper, taking photos and shooting the occasional video have chewed up more time than expected and bled off resources from this endeavor.
Also, a major system change stifled my ability to post when did have time.
Besides a testing entry, it's been a year.
However, I'm back in action, at least for now.

Briggs & Stratton Keyways are supposed to snap

2009-03-27T23:29:39Z

Don’t replace a Briggs & Stratton magnesium flywheel keyway with a steel one.
If the engine suddenly binds up and dies, from mechanical failure, or from hitting a clandestine rock, the magnesium keyway will, snap. It’s supposed to.
And while an hour’s time to fix it, plus a buck to by a new keyway may be inconvenient, it’s less so than buying a new crankshaft.
The steel keyway won’t snap and will cause something else to fail, which is probably more expensive.
Here’s why and how I found this out.
I’m using my landlord’s 20+year-old rototiller when the pull start catches, sucking in the rope that I’d tied to the handle.
It makes this crazy, horrendous squealing noise and dies instantly, from full throttle to nothing in no time.
I spend the next couple hours with a bag of tools and a can of ether trying to start the beast while it backfires at me.
I come to find the keyway in two pieces when I go to inspect the points.
Luckily Don's Saw & Mower Service in Paradise had the part and sold it to me for a buck.
Put it all back together and it fired right up.

Here’s how to handle it.

This particular model was a side-shaft style. Mowers however are probably a vertical shaft.

First take the pull-start cover off.

Then remove the pickup coil, high-tension plug wire and spark plug. (Removing the plug makes turning over the engine by hand easier.)

Now remove the debris screen (if equipped.)

Next somehow prevent the flywheel from turning as you back off the pull-start clutch with a pipe wrench or water-pump pliers. (Be careful not to loose the ball bearings in the clutch.)
The clutch is what is supposed to let the motor spin independently of the pull start. It’s probably aluminum and attached in front of the flywheel.
I used a breaker bar jammed in the flywheel cooling fins and wedged against the tiller blades to hold the flywheel. It’s probably not an approved method but it worked. Locking pliers could’ve probably done the same without risking snapping off a cooling fin and unbalancing the motor.
Perhaps a rubber belt strapped around the flywheel would work to hold it in place too.
Maybe if you’re stronger than I, you can hold it there with your bare hands.

With the clutch removed the flywheel can be coaxed off.
The flywheel came off easily with a Johnson bar wedged between it and the engine block.

Note: [Now is a good time to file the points down and set dwell or gap (as described in my points blog)]
In my case, I sanded the points down with 1,000 grit paper to just touch them up and hoped for the best.

Stick the new flywheel keyway in and reverse the process.

Bingo, fire that thing up and let it make a man of you while you till your new summer garden.
Now for that rock-hard dirt.

Thunder Drift

2009-02-28T00:30:17Z

Drifting is nothing more than doing a massive burnout, driving past the limits of traction and on the verge of losing control constantly.
It’s fun to watch and even more fun to do.
For more on drifting see http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid1815825494 and click on the “Entertainment” tab. Then watch the “Thunder Drift” video.
Notice the driver was constantly sliding around the track, completely opposite of normal driving. And all that smoke isn’t coming from a blown engine, that’s tire smoke.
Anyone who has driven in mud, ice, snow or even rain knows the feeling of sliding and counter steering. But when it’s on a racetrack and you’re being judged on style, speed and precision it’s more than just hammering the throttle and cranking on the wheel.
To learn how drifting is done go to http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid1815825494 then click on the “Front Page” tab, scroll down and watch the “CHP Training Day” video. Listen carefully to Monte as he explains the concept to reporters at Media Boot Camp.
Drifting is a relatively new sporting concept in the mainstream racing world and is popular with the younger generation of drivers.
The “Thunder Drift” video shown was shot Feb. 21 at Thunderhill in Willows during practice the day before the track’s first Thunder Drift points series kickoff.

The hybrid hoax

2008-09-24T23:23:27Z

Hybrids are a hoax.
They’re too expensive to be economy cars, don’t produce the mileage they’re estimated to have and are bought for image more than anything.
At $22,000, the starting price of Prius is far too expensive to be an economy car. A Kia starts at $12,000, about half and delivers an EPA estimated 35 mpg on the highway. A Honda civic starts at $15,000 with 36 mpg. While a regular Toyota Yaris gets 36 mpg for only $12,000.
That’s al based on the respective companies’ Web sites.
Lets compare: The average conventional car price from above is $13,000. The average mileage is 35.3 mpg.
That’s $368.27 per mpg.
Prius: 46.5 mpg city and highway equals: $473.11 per mpg.
Is $104 per mpg good enough to justify the better mileage?
I’m not knocking the Prius alone. The Civic hybrid promises similar mpg on about the same dough.
People who need more mileage aren’t those who can afford to spend twice as much on a hybrid and wait in line until one becomes available.
Hybrids are a fad, just like SUVs were ten years ago. Its about image.
“Look at me I’m better than you because I pollute less and lessen the world’s dependency on foreign oil,” say hybrid supporters.
Get real.
Its more eco friendly to rock an ancient motorcycle that gets 70 mpg, uses half as much rubber, half as much manufacturing and one battery if any.
Supporting manufacturing alone by buying a new car supports America’s oil addiction.
Manufacturing the new car used dirty coal energy, more valuable resources and supports foreign industry.
Buying a brand new hybrid doesn’t follow any environmentally friendly fundamentals; recycle, reduce, and reuse.
An early ‘90s generic Japanese car can be bought for $2,000 per the Kelley Blue Book. That same generic disposable car probably gets between 20 and 30 mpg. Ask anyone who owns one.
That’s $80 per mpg, $393.11 and six times cheaper than a hybrid.
There’s an economy car.
One that also didn’t require firing up any coal to power the purchase.
But does Gladys, who has driven her generic disposable car for 18 years, tell the world she’s better than and demand car pool rights?
You’ll have to ask her.
The EPA, who estimates mileage, tests cars by putting them through a simulation of driving characteristics, including idling at a stop light.
Hybrids don’t idle, they shut down at a stop light. This exaggerates the estimated mileage of the car.
Any penny pincher would shut their engine down knowing they’d be stopped for a while. Next time you’re stopped by Caltrans for road work, see how many engines are running.
Hybrid technology has been around a long time and is great technology.
Trains have used hybrid technology for years. They run a diesel engine that solely runs a generator to produce electricity for electric motors that move the train. In a modern train there’s no mechanical link between the diesel engine and the tracks.
This saves fuel economy.
The difference is that trains last a lot longer in service than the typical car buyer keeps their car.
GM has a prototype using this technology called the Volt. It’s supposed to hit the market as soon as 2010. It’s supposed to get the equivalent of 50 mpg after an all electric 40 miles using no gas, because it’s also a plug-in hybrid.
GM wants between $30 and $40 grand once the car comes out.
Still not economy.
And isn’t that what mileage is about.
Europeans have had it right for a long time because gas has always been expensive there.
Their small, lightweight cars were cheap and sipped gas, even when the US market was still producing gas guzzlers in the ‘70s.
The Japanese market also capitalized on their pocketbook friendly design from the late ‘70s and still dominate the market today.
Small, used, cheap cars are economy.
Hybrids are to stoke an image.

Debunking Dick's myths

2008-08-19T21:10:39Z

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]]> In response to Dick Little’s column in Tuesday’s paper, I have to disagree with him.
Gasoline doesn’t burn cleaner when it burns hotter, this may be the case for your wood stove, but not for gas.
Remember in the 70’s when cars started loosing power to comply with emissions and get better mileage?
I don’t I wasn’t born, but right around 1973 American car companies started lowering compression ratios in their engines. By lowering the compression ratio, you lower the burning temp while allowing lower octane fuels, and lowering emissions.
See my octane blog for more on that, but higher octane fuels burn at a higher temperature.
Anyway a compression ratio is the ratio of the combustion chamber when the piston is at top dead center versus bottom dead center.
By compressing air, you heat it, that is a law of physics, not gas burns hotter therefore cleaner.
This also brings me to my next point. Pistons don’t make any revolutions per minute.
Pistons travel in a linear direction, the connecting rods in an engine translate that motion to rotational motion at the crankshaft which is where revolutions per minute (RPM) is measured.
Think of it as a hand drill, or bbq spit. Your arm doesn’t rotate around does it? It thrusts back and forth, as does your car’s pistons. That is unless you drive a Mazda RX7, which is another blog.
Alcohol doesn’t carry the same potential British Thermal Unit (BTU) potential. It doesn’t burn as hot and is less efficient than gasoline.
Also saying that every car could see a 2 mpg increase by the elimination of alcohol is a fallacy.
Little drives a 30 mpg car. If you drive a 15 mpg car you’d only get 1 mpg better than before, assuming you’d reap the same energy efficiency that Little claims.

For other comments on his collumn visit
http://www.topix.net/forum/source/paradise-post/TB5GV1BT098VIVSC2