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April 11, 2008

Funkhouser, Bunch represent Ridge racing

Two Paradise residents in their mid twenties took to the quarter mile dirt oval at the Silver Dollar Fairgrounds Friday April 4 to give it their all in sprint cars on the first points race of the year.
Justin Funkhouser took third place, with 47 points overall in his, wingless sprint class. But John Bunch didn’t place in the competitive 410 class.
Both teams rely heavily on sponsorship to propel their expensive racecars across the finish line. Each team runs a low budget team and has family and friends volunteering to help and donating parts.
The 5f car Funkhouser piloted Friday night was powered by a borrowed 360 cubic inch V8 engine running on alcohol.
John Beck is a machinist at Pro Machine in Chico. He makes engines for some of the racecars and said Funkhouser is one of the best.
“He’s one of the best drivers out here,” he said. “He just doesn’t have the money.”
Beck speculated the engine in Funkhouser’s car was producing 350 horsepower in a class with much more
But it takes a great driver to win with Mark Forner racer and Funkhouser crewman said.
“Justin is an upcoming star,” he said. “He’s got the nerve for it. He’ll step up to the 410s and be phenomenal.”
Mike Funkhouser, Justin’s uncle, has been around racing for more than 45 years.
He helped build the Justin’s car. He said tuning a car is essential to running fast times.
“You could be a hero one night and a zero the next.”
Racing is something a driver almost has to be born into, Mike said.
“Justin is third generation,” he said adding that if his grandchild is a boy, he’ll be the fourth.
Justin’s car is a hot setup for the wingless sprints and features front and rear breaks with breaking on the left rear wheel. He also runs a coil-over front suspension and a torsion bar rear, which is new to this year.
Last year, Justin raced a four corner coil-over suspension, a hot asphalt setup, Mike said.
John Bunch raced his winged sprint car in the 410 cubic inch class. Though he is running a smaller, 360 engine in the class to build experience before he hops in the driver’s seat of the incredibly powerful 410 cars.
“Once he runs well with this, we’ll bump him up to 410,” his step mom Patty said.
Though Bunch didn’t place in the race, it was to be expected with his lack of experience and underpowered motor, his crew said.
410 cubic inch alcohol motors can make nearly 900 horsepower, while his 360 makes a max of 650 hp, John said.
His car is also at least 200 pounds heavier than the lighter, more expensive race cars that use aluminum engine blocks and titanium bolts.
Friday night many cars wrecked, blew tires out and exploded engines.
A lot of racers who jump from cart racing to 410 cars wreck and because of that, the team runs low budget cars with lots of safety equipment, Patty said.
“We’ll let him crash this used one before he crashes a new one,” she said.
Being a parent can be nerve racking, watching cars flip over and roll violently on the course.
“I love it but his mother goes bananas.”
Justin and John know each other and help one another out, Patty said.
“Justin has been wonderful with helping set up the car for the track,” she said.
Bill Bunch, John’s dad and car owner said the car was not up to par with the bigger teams.
“We’re underpowered,” he said. “But, if he does well with this, he’ll run well with a 410.”
Brad Bumgarner, Bunch’s crew chief, has been around racing his whole life and behind the wheel of his car for six years.
He said the sport is expensive.
“It costs so much money and you don’t make anything,” he said. “It’s just for fun.”
Having a 360 in a 410 class is a huge handicap, Bumgarner said.
“It’s like bringing a knife to a gun fight.”
Top notch cars weigh less than 1,400 pounds.
“And this thing there’s no telling how much it weighs.”
Top notch cars have 850 to 875 hp.
“This thing’s lucky if it’s got 600.”
John has a four month old son, who’ll one day inherit racing, Patty said.
“We’re already scoping out what box stock to get him when he’s five.”

Two Paradise residents in their mid twenties took to the quarter mile dirt oval at the Silver Dollar Fairgrounds Friday April 4 to give it their all in sprint cars on the first points race of the year.
Justin Funkhouser took third place, with 47 points overall in his, wingless sprint class. But John Bunch didn’t place in the competitive 410 class.
Both teams rely heavily on sponsorship to propel their expensive racecars across the finish line. Each team runs a low budget team and has family and friends volunteering to help and donating parts.
The 5f car Funkhouser piloted Friday night was powered by a borrowed 360 cubic inch V8 engine running on alcohol.
John Beck is a machinist at Pro Machine in Chico. He makes engines for some of the racecars and said Funkhouser is one of the best.
“He’s one of the best drivers out here,” he said. “He just doesn’t have the money.”
Beck speculated the engine in Funkhouser’s car was producing 350 horsepower in a class with much more
But it takes a great driver to win with Mark Forner racer and Funkhouser crewman said.
“Justin is an upcoming star,” he said. “He’s got the nerve for it. He’ll step up to the 410s and be phenomenal.”
Mike Funkhouser, Justin’s uncle, has been around racing for more than 45 years.
He helped build the Justin’s car. He said tuning a car is essential to running fast times.
“You could be a hero one night and a zero the next.”
Racing is something a driver almost has to be born into, Mike said.
“Justin is third generation,” he said adding that if his grandchild is a boy, he’ll be the fourth.
Justin’s car is a hot setup for the wingless sprints and features front and rear breaks with breaking on the left rear wheel. He also runs a coil-over front suspension and a torsion bar rear, which is new to this year.
Last year, Justin raced a four corner coil-over suspension, a hot asphalt setup, Mike said.
John Bunch raced his winged sprint car in the 410 cubic inch class. Though he is running a smaller, 360 engine in the class to build experience before he hops in the driver’s seat of the incredibly powerful 410 cars.
“Once he runs well with this, we’ll bump him up to 410,” his step mom Patty said.
Though Bunch didn’t place in the race, it was to be expected with his lack of experience and underpowered motor, his crew said.
410 cubic inch alcohol motors can make nearly 900 horsepower, while his 360 makes a max of 650 hp, John said.
His car is also at least 200 pounds heavier than the lighter, more expensive race cars that use aluminum engine blocks and titanium bolts.
Friday night many cars wrecked, blew tires out and exploded engines.
A lot of racers who jump from cart racing to 410 cars wreck and because of that, the team runs low budget cars with lots of safety equipment, Patty said.
“We’ll let him crash this used one before he crashes a new one,” she said.
Being a parent can be nerve racking, watching cars flip over and roll violently on the course.
“I love it but his mother goes bananas.”
Justin and John know each other and help one another out, Patty said.
“Justin has been wonderful with helping set up the car for the track,” she said.
Bill Bunch, John’s dad and car owner said the car was not up to par with the bigger teams.
“We’re underpowered,” he said. “But, if he does well with this, he’ll run well with a 410.”
Brad Bumgarner, Bunch’s crew chief, has been around racing his whole life and behind the wheel of his car for six years.
He said the sport is expensive.
“It costs so much money and you don’t make anything,” he said. “It’s just for fun.”
Having a 360 in a 410 class is a huge handicap, Bumgarner said.
“It’s like bringing a knife to a gun fight.”
Top notch cars weigh less than 1,400 pounds.
“And this thing there’s no telling how much it weighs.”
Top notch cars have 850 to 875 hp.
“This thing’s lucky if it’s got 600.”
John has a four month old son, who’ll one day inherit racing, Patty said.
“We’re already scoping out what box stock to get him when he’s five.”

April 1, 2008

Ignition points

Why:
Changing points on you car may be the best $10 tune-up your car or truck could have.

Do I have points?
Generally cars and trucks prior to 1973 had a breaker point ignition system. Many small engines also have points.
If you don’t know if your car or truck has points reference a shop manual or call a parts store to find out.
Many models of cars or trucks offered both electronic (solid state) and point ignition systems. GM vehicles called their electronic ignitions HEI or high energy ignition systems.
Some have rare dual point distributors which obviously have two points.

Check your points:
To check your points, open your distributor cap and locate the points. Open them up and look for pitting on them and carbon build up. They may be out of adjustment of just needing a clean up.
If they’re not too bad you can use sandpaper or an emery board if you don’t have a point file. Just make sure to blow out the distributor with compressed air after you sand the points down.
You want the points to meet squarely when they contact. After sanding I like to polish the point contacts with a business card, or really fine grit sandpaper.

Changing points:
Anyway to change points go to the parts store and buy a set. I usually opt for the nicer set if they have two part numbers. You can ask for tungsten steel points or vented, or high performance points. The extra $2 in my experience is worth the dough.
I almost always replace the condenser as well. It is cheap and easy to install. Some points come as a set with a condenser.
Remove and replace the old points.

Set point gap:
Set the gap with a feeler gauge. The points are usually set on a fulcrum where you lightly tighten one screw and the other allows it to pivot to the right spot and then tighten.
Make sure the cam lobe of the distributor is on a high point when you set the gap.
A remote starter is handy here, but a friend in the driver’s seat works just as well.
Tap the motor over with the key, or use a wrench on the crankshaft to get the lobe on the high point and set the gap to the recommended setting, generally it’s 17 to 19 thousands of an inch (.017-.019).
If you don’t have a feeler gauge you can get it close by eye or using a matchbook cover. Then using a dwell meter when the motor is running set it to the right dwell.
Setting the gap with a feeler gauge is a learned skill, but you want light tension, or if a .019 won’t fit try a .017. You want light drag if you pull the feeler out of the points.
It’s like setting a spark plug gap really, but a tighter gap.
Once you’ve done that, connect the wires back to the coil, ground and condenser, if you haven’t already.
Now put the cap back on and secure it with the screws, or the snapping spring clips. Make sure to put the rotor back on the distributor shaft, I always forget that.
Now, if you’ve done the gap right you’re done in there.

Set timing:
Now set your timing.
Start the motor, in park. Or in neutral with the parking break set (manual trans.)
If it won’t start you can loosen the distributor hold-down and turn it slightly, like a couple degrees either way while cranking until the motor starts.
After it starts, warm up the motor and get it to idle, at the manufacturer’s recommended speed.
If you have friend have him or her hold the break and put the vehicle in gear (auto trand) while you set the timing. Using a timing gun, set the timing at the suggested setting. Most cars like a 6 to 8 degree before Top Dead Center (TDC.)
If you don’t see a mark on the harmonic balancer, make sure the light is firing and if it is, make sure the inductive lead is on the number one cylinder. Still no light kill the motor and mark the timing line with chalk or whiteout. Start and time the vehicle.
Tighten the distributor hold-down, put the car in park and go for a drive. The vehicle should run better.

NOTE:
Note the timing is always done after the points are cleaned, adjusted or replaced. The point gap will change the timing.
GM vehicles’ points can be adjusted while running, fords cannot. Motorcycles’ procedures are the same basic idea, just refer to the correct timing mark in the manual. (F or F1 and so on.)

Why:
Changing points on you car may be the best $10 tune-up your car or truck could have.

Do I have points?
Generally cars and trucks prior to 1973 had a breaker point ignition system. Many small engines also have points.
If you don’t know if your car or truck has points reference a shop manual or call a parts store to find out.
Many models of cars or trucks offered both electronic (solid state) and point ignition systems. GM vehicles called their electronic ignitions HEI or high energy ignition systems.
Some have rare dual point distributors which obviously have two points.

Check your points:
To check your points, open your distributor cap and locate the points. Open them up and look for pitting on them and carbon build up. They may be out of adjustment of just needing a clean up.
If they’re not too bad you can use sandpaper or an emery board if you don’t have a point file. Just make sure to blow out the distributor with compressed air after you sand the points down.
You want the points to meet squarely when they contact. After sanding I like to polish the point contacts with a business card, or really fine grit sandpaper.

Changing points:
Anyway to change points go to the parts store and buy a set. I usually opt for the nicer set if they have two part numbers. You can ask for tungsten steel points or vented, or high performance points. The extra $2 in my experience is worth the dough.
I almost always replace the condenser as well. It is cheap and easy to install. Some points come as a set with a condenser.
Remove and replace the old points.

Set point gap:
Set the gap with a feeler gauge. The points are usually set on a fulcrum where you lightly tighten one screw and the other allows it to pivot to the right spot and then tighten.
Make sure the cam lobe of the distributor is on a high point when you set the gap.
A remote starter is handy here, but a friend in the driver’s seat works just as well.
Tap the motor over with the key, or use a wrench on the crankshaft to get the lobe on the high point and set the gap to the recommended setting, generally it’s 17 to 19 thousands of an inch (.017-.019).
If you don’t have a feeler gauge you can get it close by eye or using a matchbook cover. Then using a dwell meter when the motor is running set it to the right dwell.
Setting the gap with a feeler gauge is a learned skill, but you want light tension, or if a .019 won’t fit try a .017. You want light drag if you pull the feeler out of the points.
It’s like setting a spark plug gap really, but a tighter gap.
Once you’ve done that, connect the wires back to the coil, ground and condenser, if you haven’t already.
Now put the cap back on and secure it with the screws, or the snapping spring clips. Make sure to put the rotor back on the distributor shaft, I always forget that.
Now, if you’ve done the gap right you’re done in there.

Set timing:
Now set your timing.
Start the motor, in park. Or in neutral with the parking break set (manual trans.)
If it won’t start you can loosen the distributor hold-down and turn it slightly, like a couple degrees either way while cranking until the motor starts.
After it starts, warm up the motor and get it to idle, at the manufacturer’s recommended speed.
If you have friend have him or her hold the break and put the vehicle in gear (auto trand) while you set the timing. Using a timing gun, set the timing at the suggested setting. Most cars like a 6 to 8 degree before Top Dead Center (TDC.)
If you don’t see a mark on the harmonic balancer, make sure the light is firing and if it is, make sure the inductive lead is on the number one cylinder. Still no light kill the motor and mark the timing line with chalk or whiteout. Start and time the vehicle.
Tighten the distributor hold-down, put the car in park and go for a drive. The vehicle should run better.

NOTE:
Note the timing is always done after the points are cleaned, adjusted or replaced. The point gap will change the timing.
GM vehicles’ points can be adjusted while running, fords cannot. Motorcycles’ procedures are the same basic idea, just refer to the correct timing mark in the manual. (F or F1 and so on.)